Skin concerns.
Because I am no longer doing ‘online skin consultations’, I’m going to give you an insight into the many different skin concerns - you can compare your skin to the signs of the most common skin concerns to help your skin by taking the correct steps.
I am only going to be doing skin consultations in clinic, I can advise you on the best way possible to take those steps using the right home care, ingredients to target your concerns and treatments for your individual concern.
WHAT IS YOUR SKIN CONCERN?
Concern: Dehydration, Dull appearance, Rough texture, Fine lines and wrinkles, Hyperpigmentation, Lack of firmness, Loss of fat and fullness, Loss of elasticity or a slower “snapback” when skin is pulled. = SKIN AGEING
Concern: Blackheads, Whiteheads, Congestion, Papules, Pustules, Oily Skin = ACNE
Concern: Dark Spots, Freckles, Age Spots, Uneven Skin Tone, Melasma = PIGMENTATION
Concern: Sensitivity to products, Irritation, Redness, Discomfort, Eczema, Overly Dry Skin, Scaling, Itching, Fine Lines = SENSITIVITY OR DRY SKIN
Concern: Facial Flushing, Redness, visible vessels, bumps and pimples on cheeks, forehead, nose and chin = ROASACEA
SKIN AGEING.
Skin aging results from biological changes in the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. In the epidermis, barrier function is reduced causing an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). TEWL is the diffusion of water from the blood circulation through the dermis and epidermis finally to evaporate at the surface. Skin cell turnover slows and there are pigment production changes causing dryness and an uneven skin tone.In the dermis, collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid levels decrease leading to reduced firmness, elasticity and hydration. This results in fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration, dullness and decreased skin tone. Hypodermis aging is marked by the loss of fat in the face, which leads to decreased fullness, sagging skin and wrinkles.Aging of the skin can be divided into two categories: intrinsic and extrinsic.
Intrinsic aging, known as natural or chronological aging, normally begins in our mid-20s and is determined by genetics.Extrinsic aging accounts for up to 90% of skin aging and is largely controllable. The most common causes are: Sun exposure – the major cause, often referred to as PHOTOAGING, Pollution and environmental stressors, Lifestyle choices, such as smoking and alcohol consumption and Stress. The good news is that you can reverse some of this damage and prevent future negative effects on the skin.
What does aging skin look like?
While the visible aging process varies from person to person, some common skin changes include: Dehydration, Dull appearance, Rough texture, Fine lines and wrinkles, Hyperpigmentation, Lack of firmness, Loss of fat and fullness, Loss of elasticity or a slower “snapback” when skin is pulled.
Step 1: Exfoliate to increase cell turnover - Our skin cycle becomes longer as we age, causing dead skin cells to collect on the top layer of the epidermis and make the skin look dry and rough. The epidermis also thins as we get older. Before the age of 30 our skin can turnover around every 28 days but as we age this can slow up to 80 days, so as you can imagine, your skin doesn’t look as fresh. Exfoliation stimulates new epidermal cell growth, which helps smooth, thicken and strengthen the skin for a younger appearance.
Step 2: Strengthen the dermal matrix of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid - To plump the skin and improve the appearance of fine lines, you must work from the inside out. Strengthen the dermis by using ingredients that stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Step 3: Reduce hyperpigmentation and discoloration - Treat sun spots and other discoloration with exfoliating treatments and products that contain melanin-inhibiting ingredients. Using these methods simultaneously increases your chance of success.Choose natural lightening and brightening agents like emblica, licorice, oyster phoenix mushroom and kojic acid.
Step 4: Optimize hydration levels - Dry skin shows more pronounced wrinkling and a rougher texture. However, heavy moisturizers are not always the solution. Use the correct ingredients to draw and lock in moisture, and improve the skin’s ability to produce its own moisture.
Step 5: Protect with broad-spectrum sunscreen - Sun exposure damages DNA and skin cells over time, reducing the skin’s natural ability to repair itself and negating positive results from skin care. Sun exposure after certain professional treatments, like chemical peels, may actually aggravate hyperpigmentation.It is critical to protect skin with broad-spectrum sunscreens that provide both UVA and UVB protection. Zinc oxide is currently the most effective sunscreen ingredient due to its ability to physically block UVA and UVB rays. For this reason, all AlumierMD sunscreens contain zinc oxide.
Step 6: Protect with antioxidants - Free radicals damage skin cells and their DNA, which can result in visible signs of aging over time. Protect the skin with free radical-fighting antioxidants.
Dry & Sensitive Skin.
Individuals with a heightened intolerance to products and the environment are said to have sensitive skin. They may experience redness, discomfort, bumps and irritation. Dry skin is characterized by a lack of moisture and natural oils in the epidermis and can cause scaling, itching and fine lines. Dryness is usually related to a skin barrier issue that allows excess moisture to escape. This issue is referred to as increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Causes of sensitivity include:
Skin disorders like eczema or rosacea. Overly dry skin due to a compromised hydrolipid barrier. Overexposure to irritants like wind, sun and harsh topical ingredients.
In all cases, the skin’s moisture barrier is impaired, which leads to dryness and irritation.
Causes of dry skin are:
1) Winter weather: Cold temperatures and low humidity can dehydrate skin.
2) Aging: Hormone levels change as we age, leading to a decrease in sebum (oil) production and an increase in TEWL.
3) Genetics: Some individuals produce less sebum, causing them to have drier skin than others.
4) Hot showers: The longer you stay in the steamy shower, the more you dry out your skin. Five-minute is an ideal length of time.
5) Excessive exposure to water and harsh soaps: Frequent washing robs skin of moisture and many soaps strip skin of its natural oils.
6) The sun: Unprotected UV ray exposure disrupts the skin’s ability to balance moisture levels.
How can sensitive and dry skin be improved?
Step 1: Restore the moisture barrier by repairing skin cell turnover. - Dry/Sensitive skin often suffers from increased cell turnover time, meaning it takes longer than 28 days for skin cells to move from the deeper layers to being part of the dead stratum corneum at the surface. The result is skin that looks rough, dry and unhealthy. Exfoliation removes the dead skin layer to reveal newer more vibrant skin.
Step 2: Enhance moisture levels - Moisturising dry/sensitive skin is not just about applying creams when you feel dry, but about using the correct ingredients to attract moisture into the epidermis and keep it there.
Humectants attract water from the deep layers of the epidermis up to the stratum corneum; examples are hyaluronic acid, honey and glycerin. Emollients work by filling spaces between skin flakes with oil droplets; Examples are vitamin E and jojoba oil. Occlusives block TEWL in the stratum corneum by forming a barrier on the skin; examples are silicones and lanolin.
Step 3: Exfoliate Gently - Use less aggressive professional treatments to prevent dermatitis (skin inflammation) and redness. Avoid mechanical exfoliating treatments like microdermabrasion and harsh scrubs.It is also best to either avoid topical retinols or use them at lower strengths with less frequent application. Retinols may still be helpful in increasing cell turnover for improved barrier function in those who can tolerate them.
Step 4: Protect from UV rays - Use a gentle broad-spectrum sunscreen every day to prevent irritation and dryness from UV exposure. Choose sunscreens with mineral ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are gentle and less likely than chemical ingredients to irritate sensitive skin.
Pigmentation.
Hyperpigmentation occurs when excess melanin causes a darkened appearance to the skin in either small or large areas. Pigmentation is the natural color of a person’s skin and it is related to melanin production. Melanin protects skin cells and their DNA by absorbing the sun’s ultraviolet rays (UVR). Darker skin types, in general, are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation than lighter skin types because their skin naturally contains more melanin.
Hyperpigmentation Types and Triggers:
1) UV induced: This type of hyperpigmentation shows in the form of freckles, age spots and uneven skin tone. It is caused by exposure to ultraviolet rays, from the sun or tanning beds.
2) Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): PIH is found in areas of the skin that have been subjected to inflammation due to trauma, acne or irritation. Inflammation stimulates Langerhans cells (immune cells), which alter the activity of skin cells, causing increased pigment production.
3) Melasma: Melasma appears as symmetrical patches most often on the cheeks, chin, upper lip and forehead. It can be related to pregnancy, birth control pill, menopause or hormone replacement therapy.
The hyperpigmentation process:
1) Hyperpigmentation triggers eg. inflammation, UV rays, hormones.
2) Melanin production is stimulated within melanocytes.
3) Melanin is transferred from melanocytes to skin cells.
4) Skin cells are in a constant state of upward motion to the surface.
5) Skin develops dark spots or patches on the surface or is uniformly darker (as in a tan).Hyperpigmentation can become darker as the skin cells move closer to the surface. This point is important because, with many treatments, hyperpigmentation can darken in appearance before fading.
How can hyperpigmentation be improved?
Step 1: Exfoliate to lift pigmentation and stimulate new skin cell growth - Exfoliating treatments and products help fade pigment and bring new skin cells to the surface.
Step 2: Prevent the formation of new pigmentation - Use melanogenesis inhibitors to block melanin production and other specialized ingredients to prevent transfer of pigment from melanocytes to skin cells. Look for kojic acid, licorice, emblica, oyster phoenix mushroom and vitamin C.
Step 3: Protect against UV rays - Skin that is not protected from the sun is susceptible to further hyperpigmentation. Using a photo-stable daily broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is the key to preventing further pigmentation.
Rosacea Skin.
Rosacea is a chronic skin condition characterized by facial flushing, redness, visible vessels, bumps and pimples. The first sign of rosacea may be redness or flushing that comes and goes. Rosacea is most often seen in fair-skinned people between the ages of 30 and 50 and typically affects the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin. It is more common in women but more aggressive in men.
The cause of rosacea is not yet certain; theories relate to bacteria that live in the colon, an allergy to a natural mite (demodex mite) that lives in our skin, unstable vessels, genetics and sun exposure. What we do know is that something irritates the skin, leading to chronic inflammation with intermittent flare-ups.
If skin is sensitive or damaged, it will not cope with daily common daily aggressors. Sun, wind and pollution can cause a reaction within the skin. Since the skin is compromised and unable to properly protect itself from this reaction, the body sends blood to the areas as a defense mechanism. Blood brings oxygen by red blood cells and immunity with white blood cells to try and correct the effect of these aggressions. However, it also brings heat, redness and inflammation. If this flushing reaction occurs regularly over time, the blood vessels just under the skin will become dilated and the redness will be more permanent. As a result, the skin will become more vulnerable to daily aggressors and rosacea symptoms will get worse.
Common Rosacea Triggers
Temperature - Very hot or cold weatherwind exposure, Hot showers, baths, saunas, Intense Exercise overheating can trigger flushing - Try to stay cool while exercising. Cosmetic products - Products with fragrance, alcohols, abrasives and other irritating substances - Choose gentle products. Drinks and Food - hot drinks and hot soups, caffeinated drinks like tea or coffee, alcohol, spicy food. Sun exposure-wear sunscreen daily (with an SPF of at least 30) physical filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide keep skin cooler by reflecting UV rays away from the skin, avoid sun between 11am and 4pm. Stress - stress is a common trigger for rosacea, try to manage stress by getting enough sleep, eating a healthy balanced diet, and practicing relaxation techniques. Medications - certain medications can cause flushing, extended use of cortisone creams can worsen rosacea.
Classification of Rosacea:
Subtype 1: Characterized by flushing and persistent redness, and may also include visible vessels.
Subtype 2: Characterized by persistent redness with transient bumps and pimples.
Subtype 3: Characterized by skin thickening, often seen on the nose.
Subtype 4: Characterized by dry eyes, tearing and burning, swollen eyelids, recurrent styes and potential loss of vision from corneal damage.
Steps to help Rosacea skin:
Step 1: Releive Irritation and Redness - Calm the skin with skin soothing ingredients such as hinokitiol, sea whip and aloe. Help prevent flare-ups caused by environmental factors with antioxidants.
Step 2: Repair the skins natural moisture barrier - Maintaining the skin’s natural barrier is crucial to preventing further moisture loss and improving cell turnover. Dry skin has a slower cell turnover compared to adequately hydrated skin. Gentle exfoliating treatments and proper hydration can help regulate the process.
Step 3: Protect from UV Rays: Choose mineral-based broad-spectrum sunscreens with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which keep the skin cooler than chemical sunscreen ingredients by reflecting UV rays. Mineral ingredients are generally less irritating than chemicals, which is important for sensitive and redness-prone skin.
Step 5: Camouflage redness - AlumierMD’s innovative color-encapsulated tinted sunscreens relieve redness and even out skin tone while providing broad-spectrum UV protection.
Acne Skin.
Almost 85% of all people develop acne at some point in their lives. Acne is a skin condition that consists of comedones, papules, pustules, and cysts. Acne most commonly develops on areas of the body that contain a lot of sebaceous glands (oil) glands like the face, neck, chest, back, and shoulders.
Acne usually begins (and is most common) at puberty, but many adults also develop the condition.
Acne is caused by three major factors:
1) Blockage of hair follicles (pores), where sebum (oil) is produced, by dead skin cells
2) Overproduction of sebum
3) Proliferation of P. acnes bacteria and consequent inflammation.
Types of Acne
Non-inflammatory Acne:
Blackheads and whiteheads occur when a plug made up of sebum and dead skin cells can be seen inside a follicle/pore, but does not cause any inflammation or redness. Blackheads: If the plug enlarges and stretches the pore, it is referred to as a blackhead. Blackheads aren’t trapped dirt. Rather, the dark color is a build-up of melanin and oxidized oil. Whiteheads: When a thin cover of skin traps the plug, it prevents the oil from oxidizing. This keeps it white and creates a whitehead.
Inflammatory Acne:
When follicles are blocked by sebum and skin cells, the follicle wall is under pressure. If the pressure is great enough, then the follicle wall will break and the contents will spread into the surrounding skin. When your immune system responds to this bacteria and sebum, inflammatory acne occurs. The degree of inflammation determines the size and redness of an acne lesion.
Papules: Pink or red bumps without a white or yellow centre.
Pustules: Red bumps with a white or yellow centre of pus. Pustules are formed when the plug inside a pore traps oil and bacteria, which draws white blood cells to the area to fight infection. Pus is made up of dead white blood cells.
Cysts and nodules: Larger (and often painful) acne lesions that extend into the deeper skin layers. Cysts and nodules can last for months, destroy the follicle and lead to permanent scars.
Acne is caused by the following.....
Excess Subum production - Sebum is naturally produced in the hair follicles on the face. It’s primary function is to waterproof and moisturise the skin and hair by flowing out of the follicles onto the skins surface. Acne may not simply be the amount of sebum but the type of sebum. Thicker and stickier oil does not spread onto the surface of the skin as easily as thinner oil.
Altered Keratinisation - In a normal functioning hair follicle, dead skin cells are being shed from the inside of the pore and deposited at the surface of the skin. However, in acne, this normal sloughing is impaired, causing a blockage of the follicles.
How can we target acne?
Step 1: Exfoliate to remove cell build-up
Acne skin is often caused by dead skin cells in the pores that are not shedding properly. It is important to remove cell build-up in the pores to allow treatment products to penetrate and destroy P. acnes bacteria. Salicylic acid and lactic acid are examples of exfoliating ingredients known to improve acne.
Step 2: Reduce the amount of acne bacteria (P. acnes)
Choose natural anti-bacterial ingredients like hinokitiol, Canadian Willowherb ™, resveratrol and tea tree oil instead of synthetic antibiotics where resistance is a growing problem.
Step 3: Control sebum production
When sebum builds up under the plugged pore/follicle, it causes an inflammatory response. Keeping skin moisturized is an important way to balance sebum production. If skin dries out due to excessive washing or harsh chemicals, it will produce more sebum to compensate. Look for gentle ingredients that help mattify skin and control oil production.
Step 4: Repair skin texture and tone.
Depending on its severity, acne can leave post-inflammatory discoloration and scarring. Repair skin tone and texture with professional peels alongside smoothing and lightening home care products.
Step 5: Protect against inflammation and UV damage.
Inflammation is a cause and a result of acne. White blood cells are drawn to acne lesions as an immune response to P. acnes bacteria, which in turn causes inflammation. Inflammation in the presence of UV rays leads to hyperpigmentation, and exfoliating products used to treat acne often make skin more sun sensitive. It is critical to block UV rays with a broad-spectrum sunscreen that contains ingredients to help calm acne and maintain the skin’s delicate moisture balance. Use anti-inflammatory ingredients like hinokitiol, sea whip and Canadian Willowherb ™ to reduce inflammation and clear breakouts.